In Part 1, we covered MOQ, manufacturers, printing, and costs. Fabric is where most new brands either win customer trust or lose it — a great print on bad fabric still feels cheap. This part breaks down fabric types, GSM, quality testing, and how to avoid the most common sourcing mistakes.
1. Understanding Cotton Types
Not all “100% cotton” is the same. Quality depends heavily on the cotton grade and yarn processing:
| Cotton Type | Feel & Quality | Common Use |
|---|---|---|
| Carded Cotton | Slightly rougher, shorter fibers, more affordable | Budget tees, basics |
| Combed Cotton | Softer, smoother, fewer impurities (combing removes short fibers) | Premium tees, streetwear |
| Combed Ringspun Cotton | Smoothest, most durable, slight sheen | High-end oversized tees, the current streetwear standard |
| Organic Cotton | Same feel as regular cotton, grown without pesticides | Sustainability-focused brands (higher cost) |
| Slub Cotton | Textured, uneven yarn look intentionally | Casual/vintage-style tees |
For a premium oversized streetwear brand: combed ringspun cotton is the industry standard — it’s what most established D2C brands use, and customers can feel the difference immediately.
2. GSM Explained — What Number Should You Choose?
GSM = Grams per Square Meter. It measures fabric weight/thickness, not necessarily quality — but it directly affects feel and drape.
| GSM Range | Feel | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 140–180 GSM | Light, almost see-through if cheap | Summer basics, budget tees (avoid for premium positioning) |
| 190–220 GSM | Standard mid-weight | Regular fit tees, everyday wear |
| 230–260 GSM | Heavy, structured, holds shape | Oversized streetwear tees (most popular current GSM) |
| 280–320 GSM | Very heavy cotton / light fleece | Premium boxy tees, light hoodies |
| 320–400+ GSM | Thick fleece | Hoodies, sweatshirts |
Sleeve/collar tip: many premium brands use a lower GSM main body (~240) with a heavier ribbed collar/cuff for structure — ask your manufacturer if they can match this construction.
3. Fleece Types for Hoodies
| Fleece Type | Texture | Warmth | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| French Terry | Looped on inside, smooth outside | Light-medium | Good for warmer climates, popular for lighter hoodies/sweatshirts |
| Brushed Fleece (Fleece Back) | Soft brushed inside, looks like felt | High | Classic winter hoodie feel |
| Loopback/Loop Knit | Similar to French terry, slightly different knit | Light-medium | Trendy for premium streetwear |
For the Indian market (mostly warm climate), French Terry (240-320 GSM) hits the sweet spot — comfortable, not too heavy, still feels premium.
4. How to Actually Test Fabric Quality (Before You Commit to Bulk)
Don’t just trust a supplier’s word — test a fabric swatch or sample garment yourself:
- Stretch test: Pull the fabric gently in both directions. Good cotton returns to shape; poor quality stays stretched or feels flimsy.
- Pilling test: Rub the fabric against itself (or a rough surface) 20-30 times. Cheap fabric starts forming little balls (pilling) quickly.
- Shrinkage test: Wash and dry one sample piece before approving bulk. Mark the exact length/chest measurement before, compare after. Anything beyond 3-5% shrinkage is a red flag.
- Colorfastness test: Wash the sample with a white cloth alongside it. If color bleeds onto the white cloth, the dye process is poor quality.
- See-through check: Hold the fabric up against light. If it’s meant to be opaque (most oversized tees are) and light passes through easily, GSM/weave is too thin.
- Smell/feel check: Cheap synthetic-blended “cotton” often has a slightly plasticky smell or feel — genuine cotton feels breathable and soft.
Always request this test on the sample stage — never skip straight to approving a bulk order based on photos alone.
5. Common Fabric Defects to Watch For
| Defect | What It Looks Like | Why It Happens |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven dyeing | Patchy or streaky color across the piece | Poor dye batch control |
| Slubs/knots (unintentional) | Random thick threads in a smooth fabric | Low-grade yarn |
| Holes/weak spots | Small holes appearing after few washes | Weak yarn tension during knitting |
| Excessive pilling | Fabric surface gets fuzzy/bobbly fast | Low-quality or short-staple fiber |
| GSM inconsistency | Some pieces feel thinner than others in the same batch | Inconsistent fabric rolls, mixed sourcing |
If you spot these in more than 5-8% of a sample batch, negotiate a replacement fabric roll before bulk production — don’t proceed hoping “it’ll be fine in bulk.”
6. Cotton vs Blends — What to Choose
| Fabric | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| 100% Cotton | Breathable, soft, premium feel, better for print adhesion | Wrinkles more, slightly higher shrinkage if not pre-shrunk |
| Cotton-Poly Blend (80/20, 65/35) | Less shrinkage, wrinkle-resistant, cheaper | Less breathable, feels less premium, can pill faster |
| 100% Polyester | Very cheap, holds sublimation prints well | Feels synthetic, not preferred for premium streetwear |
For a brand positioning itself as premium streetwear (like most oversized tee/hoodie brands), 100% combed cotton is worth the extra cost — it’s the single biggest factor customers associate with “feels expensive.”
7. Sourcing Fabric — Mills vs Traders
| Source | MOQ | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric Mills (direct) | Often 500kg+ | Best pricing, consistent quality, can customize | High MOQ, not accessible for small brands initially |
| Fabric Traders/Wholesalers | Often 20-50kg | Lower MOQ, flexible, can source small quantities of mill-quality fabric | Slightly higher per-kg cost, quality can vary by batch |
| Manufacturer-Sourced (they buy, you don’t touch it) | Whatever their production MOQ is | Simplest — one less thing to manage | Less control/visibility over fabric quality and cost markup |
For a starting brand: let your manufacturer source fabric initially (simpler), but always ask which mill/fabric grade they’re using, and request a swatch card before confirming. Once you’re ordering 200kg+ regularly, consider going directly to a trader for better margins.
8. Fabric Cost Reference (Per Kg → Per Piece)
Approximate fabric costs (raw fabric only, India, 2025-26 range):
| Fabric Type | Cost per Kg (approx.) | Fabric Needed per Oversized Tee | Approx. Fabric Cost per Tee |
|---|---|---|---|
| Carded Cotton (200 GSM) | ₹280–₹350 | ~0.45–0.5 kg | ₹130–₹175 |
| Combed Ringspun Cotton (240 GSM) | ₹380–₹480 | ~0.5–0.55 kg | ₹190–₹260 |
| French Terry Fleece (320 GSM, for hoodies) | ₹420–₹550 | ~0.85–1.0 kg | ₹360–₹550 |
(These are raw fabric costs only — cutting, stitching, and printing are separate, as covered in Part 1’s cost catalog.)
9. Questions to Ask Your Fabric Supplier/Manufacturer
- “What’s the exact GSM and composition (100% cotton or blend)?”
- “Is this combed or carded yarn?”
- “Has this fabric been pre-shrunk (compacted)? What’s the expected shrinkage %?”
- “Can I get a physical swatch before confirming the order?”
- “What’s the batch-to-batch consistency like — will my repeat order match this exact fabric?”
10. Quick Fabric Quality Checklist Before Bulk Approval
- ☐ GSM matches what was quoted (weigh a swatch if unsure)
- ☐ Stretch test passed — fabric returns to shape
- ☐ Pilling test passed — minimal fuzzing after rubbing
- ☐ Shrinkage test passed — under 3-5% after wash
- ☐ Colorfastness test passed — no bleeding onto white cloth
- ☐ No visible slubs, holes, or uneven dyeing across the sample
- ☐ Feel/hand-feel matches your brand’s premium positioning
Getting fabric right is the foundation everything else sits on — a strong print or design can’t save a shirt that feels cheap or falls apart after three washes. Slow down at this stage; it pays off in repeat customers.